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lunch at Taillevent

Monday, July 27th, 2009

Taillevent

Under normal circumstances we would never be able to eat at a place like Taillevent. Not without, say, selling one of our cars, or taking out a small home equity loan. But for one thing, it was our anniversary. And for another, the restaurant is doing this amazing kick-butt summer special for its prix-fixe lunches. Three courses off a limited menu, including wine pairings, for 80 euros. Still an expensive lunch, of course, but it’s an affordable expensive. And as it turns out, it’s worth every penny.

I was more than a little nervous, going into one of the bastions of French traditional cuisine. Click to continue »

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Paris restaurant highlights

Friday, July 24th, 2009

le snack

Despite having a kitchen in Paris, we still ate out most of the time. We would have breakfast in the apartment, then venture out to some new part of the city to explore and have lunch. In the afternoon we might rest, have a drink in a cafe, or wander around our local neighborhood, then head to dinner around 9 pm along with most of the locals.

Les Cotelettes

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had done a ton of research on Paris restaurants, and to some extent it really wasn’t necessary. Once there, we were much more interested in finding something that looked good wherever we happened to be, rather than going out of our way to go eat at a particular place.  We may have missed out on some great food, but nothing beats a relaxing stroll home after dinner without having to get near a cab or the metro, plus the fun of discovering a great place on our own.

Here are some restaurant dishes we particularly enjoyed:

Les Cotelettes

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dinner from a Paris market

Wednesday, July 22nd, 2009

Bastille Sunday Market

On Sunday we made sure to make it up to the Bastille open-air market on Boulevard Richard Lenoir. It begins at Place de la Bastille and stretches for several blocks, four aisles wide and teeming with people, dogs and little wheeled shopping carts.

Bastille Sunday Market

You can buy everything from tomatoes to underwear. Not to mention foie gras. And wine.

Bastille Sunday Market

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Paris

Monday, July 20th, 2009

view from the Arab Institute

I hardly know where to begin with my Paris reports. We ate, and walked, and drank, and took long naps so we could go eat some more. We went to museums and parks and grocery stores and shoe stores. We sat in Notre Dame and listened to polyphony, danced to African pop music in the Place de la Bastille, watched the Montparnasse Tower put on a light show, saw the Eiffel Tower explode in fireworks, and sat in cafes at midnight. We were just in time to see the Friday evening roller blade procession, and tried out perfumes in the Salons du Palais Royal.

sammiches

And, of course, we ate.

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best. falafel. ever.

Wednesday, July 15th, 2009

Falafel on Rue des Rosiers

We’ve been in Paris for a week now and are almost due to come home. We’ve eaten many good things (macarons, croissants, terrines, fromage blanc, braised rabbit, et cetera et cetera) but interestingly enough it’s been the falafel sandwiches that have really made an impact.

Just a few blocks from our apartment, on the Rue des Rosiers in the Jewish quarter, is a collection of competing falafel shops. They also serve schawarma, merguez sausages and other sandwiches to go, but falafel is really the star attraction here.

Falafel on Rue des Rosiers

L’As du Fallafel is the granddaddy of the falafel shops, and the one that gets all the attention in guidebooks. As promised, there was a fairly long line, plus a falafel hawker out front doing everything but actually grabbing people off the street and shoving them into line. I had heard, though, that another place was actually better, so we resisted the hawker and eased our way through the crowds to the other side of the street.

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Paris on the brain

Monday, July 6th, 2009

On the Champs de Mars, with la Tour Eiffel in the background

After months of quietly obsessive research and preparation, we are finally going to get back to Paris! On our previous visit (for our 10th anniversary) we were only in Paris itself for a few days at the end of our trip. This time (for our 15th anniversary, wow!), we’ve rented an apartment with a kitchen (a small one, but a kitchen nonetheless) and are ready to storm the markets and food shops.

research

Being a bookish sort of person, I’ve done way too much reading to prepare for this trip. We’ve got our copy of  Clotilde’s Edible Adventures in Paris, and I’ve read David Lebovitz’s The Sweet Life in Paris and Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast, as well as The Book of Salt and The Sharper Your Knife, the Less You Cry, just to get myself in the mood. I have maps up the wazoo, and a list of all the Paris open-air markets with their hours, plus a list of restaurants so long we couldn’t possibly eat at them all. It boggles the mind.

Have you been to Paris? And if so, what was your best-ever food experience there? (Or even a non-food experience?)

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California wine

Thursday, May 28th, 2009

grapevines

Take a long dram with me
of California wine, of California wine.
And the wine, it tastes so sweet
as we lay our eyes to wander,
and the sky, it stretches deep.
Will we rest our heads to slumber
beneath the vines of California wine?
Beneath the sun of California One.
 

- the Decemberists

Despite being a Washington State native and rather uninclined to live anywhere else, I really like visiting California. We lived briefly in Santa Barbara after we were married, and this was the first time we’ve been back to visit. So nice to see the live oaks and the dry grassy hills (at least the ones not recently burnt black) and smell the eucalyptus.

live oaks

To boil down our Memorial Day weekend to a few sentences: we drank wine and ate barbecue. Then we went to a wedding and had more wine, and oysters, and more barbecue. Then a lot more wine.  Whee! Many thanks to our friend Deron who drove us all the way out to Foxen Winery. I loved Foxen’s porch tasting room.

Foxen Winery

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recovery

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

live oak

Having just returned from Santa Barbara and the Santa Ynez Valley last night, after a long weekend of wine, family and food, I’m not quite back together yet. I’m gradually getting my photos sorted out, and putting myself into carbohydrate recovery. Those garlic-rosemary frites at Square One were totally worth it. Not to mention the lemon-strawberry wedding cake. And did I mention wine?

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wine and pizza

Wednesday, March 25th, 2009

Lake Chelan

As part of the Campbell Road 2009 Saint Patrick’s Week Tour (such as it was), we drove up to Lake Chelan last weekend. Chelan, which tends towards the hot and crowded in summer, is pretty calm this time of year – the hills are gray, the streets are empty, and the water level is so low that the jetties end up some distance from the actual lake. But there are still a few things to do in the area, and we did them: visit a winery, eat pizza, and hang out at the Vogue Liquid Lounge.

frozen lake

Chelan has one of the newest winemaking communities around – our B&B hostess remarked that there was only one winery when she moved there just a few years ago, now there are over a dozen. Click to continue »

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fish at the Fish Tale

Monday, October 6th, 2008

Fish Tale Brewing

I recently returned from a short sojourn in Olympia, Washington. I was there for a conference, which involved some pretty forgettable hotel food, a lot of coffee and sugar and a surprising amount of time spent in the hotel bar. Luckily, my coworkers and I had time for one dinner on our own.

None of us knew Olympia very well, so we scanned the visitor’s guide that had come with our conference packet. The first place to catch my eye was “Dirty Dave’s Gay 90′s Pizza Parlor” – I mean, how could anyone resist that name? – but what we settled on was the Fish Tale Brewpub. I generally find that brewpubs have something for everyone, and this one was no exception.

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